Big Sur

“Whatever a penguin does has individuality, and he lays bare his whole life for all to see…sometimes solemn, sometimes humorous, enterprising, chivalrous, cheeky – and always a welcome and, in some ways, an almost human friend.”
The Worst Journey in the World
Apsley Cherry-Garrard

For me, a visit to Tierra del Fuego – the island nestled at the foot of South America – wouldn’t have been complete without a trip to the recently re-established King Penguin colony between Porvenir and Camerón. As a long-time admirer of this funny little waddle machine, I was looking forward to the visit with great expectations. (And it would take all of my self-control not to sneak one of them into my panniers before leaving).

Second only in size to the Emperor Penguin, the King is usually found in the much more southerly regions of South Georgia and Antarctica. As these areas are only accessible by long and expensive boat trips, we were keen and privileged to be able to access their colony by bike.

We were also lucky to have the place to ourselves. Camping there with three other cyclists, we had the last of the evening’s sun to nip down and pay them a visit and then the following morning, we returned to watch them stretch, wake and explore – a little more closely than we could ever have anticipated…

Sarah

Magical Patagonian evening light is the perfect time for viewing…

…as the penguins busy themselves with preening…

…calling to one another, and not-so-gracefully flopping down on the grass.

These are the penguins that grace the cover of well-loved paperback books…

…or the shiny red packets of school-day chocolate bar snacks.

There’s something about the way they move that seems so human. Perhaps they feel the same – that we seem so ‘penguin’, and so over they come to investigate.

Karen is the first target. Once one has decided to check her out…

…the others soon follow…

…and before long it’s a veritable penguin party.

Then they’re headed James’ way.

First, they respectfully bow…

…before they invade his space. “Does he have a beak like us?…

…Are his feathers as beautiful and smooth as ours?…

…and can he carry off ‘regal’ like we do?”

“How about the female over there…

…let’s check her out!

Are her feet like ours?…

…hmmm, clearly no good for Antarctic swimming.” 

And finally they decide we are no longer interesting…

…and off they waddle…

…to discuss more pressing things.