A final dirt detour
April 13th, 2014
Suddenly, the name that we have been heading for so long is close. Too close for comfort, in fact. So close that we might have to start thinking about what comes next.
We scrutinise the map, searching for a way to delay the inevitable. Our escape presents itself: a dirt road looping away from the tedium of the asphalt into the heart of Tierra del Fuego.
It’s the perfect ride: Patagonia in all its multicolour autumn glory, perched precariously on the edge of an icy winter. If I could finish anywhere, then it would be here – on the dirt, in the middle of nowhere, with just the guanacos for company. This is where I feel at home.
But the magnetic draw of the finishing line is too strong. We reach the asphalt once again. End of the World ego trumps my romanticism, and we push on, Ushuaia-bound.
James
Tierra del Fuego: land of pampa and sheep, corralled in enormous estancias…
…and watched over by shepherds like Martín. An icy downpour has us seeking shelter at his door, and in true Patagonian style we are greeted with a smile, mugs of tea, tray after tray of roasted lamb, and a bed.
The next morning dawns icy…
…everything covered with a hard frost.
We retreat to the stove to defrost frozen hands…
…until finally the sun creeps over the horizon.
It doesn’t get much better than a crisp, clear Autumn morning’s ride like this…
…the world seemingly frozen in time…
…caught between autumn and winter.
We savour the moment, absorbing every detail of what feel like our last days of South American freedom:
…the ever-present onlookers…
…the roadside art…
…the plays of light…
…the freshly dusted peaks…
…the ancient waymarkers…
…and the hidden lives.
These are the days when I could ride towards the horizon forever…
…the magnetic pull of the open road.
And then: Ushuaia calling 123…
…forestalled by a stopover at the legendary Panadería La Union in Tolhuin. It feels like Christmas Eve; the perfect place to spend our final night on the road with empanadas, facturas, a warm bed and good company.
April 29th, 2014 at 2:19 pm
Aw, that makes me feel quite sad for you :’(
However, you’ve turned a sad(ish) post into a beautiful blog yet again.
I’ll miss your updates.
You know, I’ll even give you some kisses, even though we’ve never met, that’s how much I’ve enjoyed your journey! Un abrazo muy fuerte y besos xxx
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April 29th, 2014 at 3:33 pm
I am sure those last 123 to Ushuaia must have felt the shortest distance in time throughout your incredible and amazing journey,just because it was coming to an end! Big hug
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April 29th, 2014 at 5:33 pm
Great pics guys.
The autumnal colours down here are certainly something else.
Looks chilly though! Brrrrrr.
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May 1st, 2014 at 9:53 am
Amazing journey, I’m sure resulting in feelings difficult to articulate. Thankyou for sharing your amazing journey, I will miss ur blogs so very much
Xx
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May 6th, 2014 at 10:39 pm
James and Sarah… wonderful but sad… it is done… until of course the next amazing adventure…. can suggest New Zealand… good biking!!!
ps.. we have photos of great-grandmother.. and others..
xxxhugs and kisses, from Chrissie, Mary and Junie Liz – very much down under..
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